Regular Posts Tagged ‘Castle Mountain’
Brewers with Deb
14th Sep 2011Posted in: Blog, Private Alpine, Private Guiding 0

Another gorgeous day in the Bow Valley!

Deb and I have been wanting to get on some rock all summer but her shoulder injury had her on hold.  Since it seemed to be a bit better, we opted for a “warm up” back onto the rock.  Brewers was the perfect route for this.  A great day in the alpine, with cool views, lots of exposure and about 13 pitches of moderate climbing.

Deb on Brewers Buttress 5.6 Castle

Deb and I started at about 5:45 from the parking lot and made good time to the start of the approach.  The first tier of climbing up to the hut is a fun little adventure and we took a quick break at the hut to enjoy the fine views from the outhouse there:)

Deb high on Brewers Buttress 5.6 Castle

From here you traverse the Goat ledge and before you know it you are enjoying 13 fine pitches of exposed climbing up to the summit.  Deb did great as usual, and we made quick work of the climbing.  We were actually HOT…can you believe that…HOT in September on Castle…wow…awesome! I was a little surprised, having climbed this route plenty in the last couple years, I started to notice a great deal more hollow sounding rock.  I am sure with the harsh winter we had, a lot of our alpine rock routes get affected. Good reminder to always tread lightly:)

close to summit Deb Brewers 5.6 castle

We enjoyed the hike over to our descent gully and were back at the car by 4:30.  A great day out!  Thanks Deb, looking forward to when you return from your trip and we can get you back on the sharp end:)

final moves Brewers 5.6 Castle

Eisenhower with Roy June 28
1st Jul 2011Posted in: Blog 0

After a bit of a delayed start, Roy and I headed up to the Hut on goat ledge on Castle Mountain.  The hike in is a fairly benign, uphill climb on a hikers trail for an hour and a half to the Lookout where views towards Banff and Lake Louise can be had for miles and miles.  Making good time here, we continued on our way to the more technical part of the ascent.  One short pitch took us to a series of steps and more uphill gain to our home for the night.

It not being the hugest quarters, we were relieved to find ourselves the sole residents for the night!  A bit of tea, a bit of brandy and soon our heads hit the down jacket for the night.

We awoke to pitter patters of rain starting at 1am and by 6am when our alarms went off, the rain was still intermittent.  Trying to shove our oatmeal and instant coffee down, we contemplated our options.  The initial plan was to do Brewers, but with the rain and the difficulty in retreating with one rope we decided to change it to Eisenhower tower since Roy had not climbed either.

The goat traverse still had a fair amount of snow so we were happy to have our axes with us.  The dragons back is always such a cool way to start the tower, some fun climbing up and down little spires that take you to the tower proper.

Once on the tower the climbing is super fun on good rock…even if it is raining!  We headed toward the decision point where one can either climb on the left of the right side of the tower.  Due to the rain that didn’t want to subside we opted for the left side to keep our options for retreat easy!

Lots of snow in the gully still made for some fun mixed snow and rock pitches.

Near the top, we had to make some decisions on the weather…we knew we were close, but the rain was starting to really come down.  Some climbers that headed up the right side decided to bail, but because the weather wasn’t electric, we continued on to tag the summit.

Lucky for us, we popped out to a fist full of sunshine that allowed us some glimpses of our amazing surroundings…

Of course, going up is only half the day!  We high fived, had a snack and started our descent down.  Several raps got us back to the ledge where we traversed back to the hut, grabbed our stuff and headed towards the car.

Thanks Roy for a great day in the mountains and persevering in the less the optimal weather!  Looking forward to our next adventure