Regular Posts Tagged ‘SARS on Ice’
Women’s Next Step 2011
16th Feb 2011Posted in: Blog 1

What a crew…4 days with 6 amazing women, and 2 fabulous guides.  Thanks Jen and Kris for your great guiding energy, thanks Sonja for your incredible camp manager skills, keeping us fed, full and happy, and thanks Claire, Mary Ann, Deb, Andrea and Clarissa for all your positive energy, and motivation towards 4 days of climbing! A very special thanks to Outdoor Research, for recognizing the significance of Women specific courses and giving every woman a new Rumor hoody!!  The best all round climbing layer for both summer and winter climbing.  Thanks so much for this support OR!!!

The week started with a movement day in Haffner creek.  Having the place nearly to ourselves was such a blessing and allowed everyone to get on lots of steep ice and some fun mixed climbing.  Trying to remind ourselves that we had 3 more days of climbing, we pried ourselves away from our tools and headed towards Mosquito Creek Hostel which we called home for the next 3 nights.  Nestled along the icefields parkway, this great hostel, with a very hard working custodian, welcomed us with a warm fire, a sauna and tons of snow!  We feasted on home cooked curry and nachos and headed to bed with dreams of tool swinging for the next day.

The following morning, Jen Olson, my friend and fellow guide arrived and we all headed to Balfour Wall for more climbing and leading skills.  Jen taught the group some ice screw placing tips and some advanced foot work and pillar climbing techniques. The day brought snow and more snow, but this did not affect this group one little bit!  Both Claire and Andrea even finished the day off with some ice leads!!

The following morning, we awoke to yet more snow and very snowy roads!!  Kris Irwin joined us and the entire group headed to the famous Weeping Wall.  Jen forged her way up the right hand weeping wall with Claire and Sonja, while Kris and I shared the left hand side with Deb, Clarissa, Andrea and Mary Ann.  New snow and dense ice made the lines an extra challenge and everyone returned from the day excited and pretty tired!!

The final morning we decided to spread out and head to a few different climbs.  Jen went with Deb and Mary Ann to Lousie Falls, Kris took Sonja and Andrea to SARS and 570 where Sonja lead the final pitch of 570…nice work!! And I joined Claire squared to 2 o clock falls where Claire led us up all 3 pitches!

We regathered for a beer and burger at the Post in Louise Falls and shared our days with each other, the laughs, the challenges and when we will all do it again!

Thanks again for a fun week…a lot of laughs, inspiring, memorable, and a highlight for sure…

For more pics go to my facebook albums

Ken and Tim SARS on Ice to 570
8th Feb 2011Posted in: Blog 0

Ken and Tim are back…. I’m always excited to see these guys.  Coming from San Fransisco and New York, this 4 day ice climbing holiday is often the only time they put their harnesses on and get to swing their tools.  With that said, it is often some of the hardest ice guiding I do in the season!  In years past we have climbed Bourgeau, Whitemans, Carlsberg, and Pilsner to name a few, and this year I was nervous with the brutal winter conditions we were having what we would be able to do. With high avi hazard, lots of wind and pretty cold temps we knew we weren’t going to tick off some of the climbs on the hit list.  Day one however, we did have a great day out on another new climb(s) on the David Thompson Highway.  This stretch of road is always a landscape of its own, with windswept mountains and a big valley.

The approach to SARS was happily straightforward and the climb was a nice addition to the day.  Above the climb, we headed up another couple 100 meters to 570.  A fun pillar followed by another  60 meter pitch. The hike down was surreal as we walked through burnt trees amongst a white carpet of snow.

A great day first day out!