This morning we left Banff at 6:30 unsure which mega classic to hit up…Murchison or Right Hand Weeping Wall…but as we reached the approach entrance to Murchison and saw very snow covered tracks and a temperature reading of -25 we opted to continue on to the weeping wall. As luck would have it one car was already in the parking lot…and yes, they too wanted to climb the right hand side. We got motivated quickly (although part of me would have been psyched for the easier left hand side!) and headed out into the brisk morning to embark on this amazing climb.
To speed things up a bit, I dragged up two ropes for the first pitch and Ken and Tim worked together climbing side by side. It was cold, the ice was dry and this was a 60 meter Grade 4 stretcher in -20 temps…can you say screaming barfies??? In both hands and feet?? The three of us all found our own definition for this lovely term of ice climbing endearment as we hunkered under our ice overhang at the first belay. In good spirits though, we started up the crux pitch. More dry, completely reformed vertical ice lie ahead and after 60 meters eased off to a comfy ledge.
Fabulous climbing, but a lot of work to get good sticks and restful stances. Amazing job on Ken and Tims part. Only 2 days of ice climbing this year prepared them for this beastly undertaking!! Neither hung, and both came to the belay with smiles and a fist full of screws! The last pitch looked short and easy, but once again was another 60 meters and some more steepish ice. All in all a great day, and we glowed in our successful climb on the drive back feasting on the lunches we neglected to take up the climb with us:) Great day guys!!!
